My two best friends, Michael and Lucas and I decided to go surfing. We piled into Luc's van and headed down to a public beach. When we arrived we made our way through the crowds and plopped down in the sand for a second. I transformed my old Dell laptop into a yellow surf board and off we went.
The water was crowded. It almost felt like we were in some kind of wave pool. Crowded or not however, I got up on my board for the first time! I road a wave all the way back to the beach and completly understood the physics of surfing. They say getting up on the board is the hardest part, but I had that down. And "steering" (or whatever it's called) with your feet was a breeze! Excitedly, I paddled back, fought for a spot, and prepared for the next wave. On the next one, I took a U-Turn and found that I could ride the wave backwards! It was exhilarating, but just too crowded. Too many people, it was like a line of surfers all fighting for the same waves ... which just doesn't work.
I ask Lucas and Michael if they wanted to go to a bigger, more private beach where the waves were bigger and better. They agreed and we popped back in the van and sped off. I pulled out Luc's 12 string acoustic and entertained our guests who somehow ended up in the van.
For whatever reason we parked a far way from the surf, but ran none-the-less to ride some waves before it was too dark. As we arrived music started playing from a DJ, the sun was slowly setting and it was the perfect setting to surf. There weren't very many people, the waves were big (but not too big) and NO one was surfing! Only problem was my dang laptop wouldn't transform back into a surfboard! But I didn't bring my swim shorts anyway, who knew why I took 'em off between beaches, so I ran back to the van w/ Luc Dawg and found my shirts. Lucas was missing something that was required to surf so we wasted more time looking for that. But no matter, we gathered up everything we needed and rushed back to the beach and Michael.
He was there anxiously waiting for us (like always) and magically my yellow board was there. The sunset was beautiful with hues of orange and red and blue hitting the clouds. "Let's go!" Michael yelled. "Hold on!" I said, "I need to take a picture and send it to Stacey". I pulled out my old iPhone 3G and snapped a few pics of my yellow board and the colorful sky. Then, I stood up, board under arm and started running towards the ocean. In that moment I heard...
"Dadda..."
"Dadda!"
"DADDAAA!!!!"
It was time to wake up and go get Zoe out of her crib.
Cheers,
-marc
